Once we start trimming out the windows the house starts to take on a more finished look and for this project all the trim will be painted. We also don’t want any knots from the wood to show through so we are using a finger jointed pine board that is made up of all clear wood (no knots). This wood is all primed and ready to paint and there will never be a knot that bleeds through as there aren’t any in the wood.
The next thing that has to be done is that the side of the widows have to be extended out so that they are flush with the sheetrock. The pieces are measured and then ripped to width on a table saw.
How I tend to do things is more of a production type method. What I do is make all the pieces and cut them for each window so that all the parts are made at one time then I assemble them at the next step.
Extension jambs installed
The sill has already been installed as well as the extension jambs so next is the trim. The trim is not set flush with the jambs to leave a reveal. This adds a detail and if anything is out of alignment it is hard for your eye to focus on it. It also makes for a cleaner finish when caulked as you’ll see below.
Nailing the jambs together and I’m not sure I could work without this cordless nail gun.
I tend to glue my edges together so that they don’t have issues down the road.
Top piece installed
The last part to be installed is the apron and this was the style that was chosen.
After everything is nailed, Sid goes through and putties all the holes. We’ve used DAP Drydex spackle for this for years. You apply with a finger, wipe away the extra and then just touch up with paint.
View of the reveal after it’s been caulked and everything gets caulked to create a smooth finish.
Fun with Caulk and I’ve used this DAP caulk for years with great results.
DAP Dynaflex 230
This is a view of the bottom finished.
And that’s how to trim off windows that will be painted. Using natural wood that will be stained is a bit different procedure.